Tied in knots

I’m no stranger to a silk scarf. I’ve still got one I bought from Brick Lane Market nearly twenty years ago. I used to wear it tied as a headband, paired with big gold hoops and a ‘love’ necklace. I was happy to see them make a return this year, with no sign of going anywhere soon. They strutted down the 2026 runways in various guises: Michael Rider’s debut collection for Celine featured scarves knotted at the neck; Gucci wrapped silk scarves over baseball caps; and Miuccia Prada draped them loosely around shoulders.

Rising to prominence in the 1920s, the silk scarf reflected a break from archaic feminine dress codes. Marlene Dietrich led the way, contrasting a soft neck scarf with a strong tuxedo – a pioneering look that challenged gender norms and helped redefine elegance for decades to come.

During the women’s liberation movement of the 1970s, women began reclaiming elements of the masculine wardrobe – trousers, blazers, shirts and scarves. By adopting traditionally masculine garments, they once again challenged old dress codes and expressed a new kind of freedom: one rooted in choice, confidence and self-definition.

Ultimately, trends come and go, but we rarely pause to consider the context and meaning they carried the first time around.

Cecil Beaton’s Fashionable World, National Portrait Gallery on Monday.
Crew neck jumper, Uniqlo; barrel leg trousers, Uniqlo; scarf, Zara; trainers, Nike; tote bag, Kate Spade, glasses, Prada.

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